Saturday, 2 November 2013

Labrador Tea As A Natural Dye

Labrador Tea,
Rhododendron groenlandicum
 Conception Harbour, NL
Labrador Tea, Rhododendron groenlandicum has a long history of use in Newfoundland and Labrador. Most often it is used to make a hot 'tea' by steeping the leaves. It has also been used as to flavour meat as well hung in closets to repel both moths and ghosts. It has a pleasant 'woodsy' aroma that reminds be of happy walks over the barrens.

One of the things that I love about working with local natural dyes is the scent that fills the studio as I work. This is especially lovely when working in winter. Autumn dried dye plants bring the hope of spring in the long dark days of February. 

Dyeing with northern plants is relatively easy. You don't need to premordant fibres, just add them to the dye bath with the wool. With just a little research you can find plants in your area that have dye properties.  On my property, in Newfoundland, there are over 20 different plants that will produce light and washfast colour. It is best to pick dye plants in the fall when the plant has had all summer to develop the tannins that will help produce colour.

Here is a basic recipe for Labrador Tea that will work with most plants and dye approximately 200 grams of fibre. 

You will need:
Wool and beaver teeth dyed with alum and
Labrador Tea picked in the Labrador Straits, February 2011.
20 grams of Alum (food grade alum can be purchased in bulk food shops and pharmacies, you can also order alum through natural dye suppliers such as Maiwa.
A 20 litre stock pot that has been designated for dyeing. The quality doesn't have to be great and you can get them for pretty cheap at big department stores or thrift shops.
A wooden spoon that has been designated for dyeing. 
Mild soap, such as Ivory bar soap.

1. Gather enough Labrador Tea to fill a grocery shopping bag. You can use all of the plant including the stems and stalks. Labrador Tea is slow growing so only pick a little from a patch and move on to the next area to insure that the plant stand is not compromised.
2. Put all of the Labrador Tea in a large stock pot.  For safety, designate a stock pot to be used only for dyeing.  Cover with water and bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer for an hour. Remove from the heat and let it cool to room temperature.
3. Prepare fibre for dyeing by tieing skeins of wool (to reduce tangling) and scouring (washing gently with warm water and mild soap). You may want to put fleece into a a mesh laundry bag.
4. Remove Labrador Tea but leave the dye 'liquor' in the pot. You may want to strain the liquor  if you are dyeing fleece to remove any bits that may tangle into the fibre.
5. Add Alum to dye liquor and stir to dissolve. Add fibre to be dyed and return to heat. Bring up to a simmer (190F/95C) and maintain temperature with out boiling for approximately an hour. 
Fleece and yarn that have been
dyed with Labrador Tea and Iron.
6. Allow pot and fibre to cool to room temperature and rinse gently with warm water and mild soap. Hang to dry. 

That's it! You have created a skein of sunny yellow wool or fleece.  By using iron as a mordant instead of alum, you can 'sadden' the colours the plants will produce.

If you are interested in more information on natural dyes, Maiwa has a great printable instruction sheet full of information. Interested in going further? I regularly teach workshops at the Anna Templeton Centre for Craft Art and Design. Follow us here and on Facebook for information on upcoming textile workshops. 

Happy colouring!

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